Executive chef Stephen Bass has transformed the Leather Bottle into a destination for imaginative British cooking, proving village pub dining can still surprise
Tell us a bit about yourself...
I have spent most of my life working in professional kitchens. I have led the kitchen at the Leather Bottle in Blackmore as executive chef for six years. It’s location was part of its attraction. Blackmore, with its historic church, village green and rural Essex character, provides an idyllic setting. Equally important was the freedom offered by the pub’s owners.
I was appointed not simply to run the kitchen, but to create. I have complete control over the menus, ingredients and seasonal changes, usually introducing a refreshed menu four times a year. I try to combine high standards with a calm, positive atmosphere. My philosophy is simple: If it’s okay, it’s not okay. You have to aim for the wow factor.
A good atmosphere in the kitchen also produces good food.
How would you describe your food?
Traditional British food with a twist and a touch of Asian flair. While familiar pub favourites still feature on my menus, I want to offer something different from everyday pub food.
I want the food to surprise customers with the quality, presentation and flavour they may not be expecting from what, on the outside, looks like a traditional pub.
When did you first become interested in cooking?
I was inspired by seeing my dad cook from an early age and picking things up from both of my parents.
My professional career started when I became a kitchen porter at just 13. After studying at college, I became a sous chef by 17 and a head chef by 19.
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What is your biggest achievement to date?
One of my proudest career achievements was being named runner-up for Chef of the Year at the 2019 Essex Life Food and Drink Awards. I am equally proud of the progress made at the Leather Bottle. My team and I have advanced the quality, variety and value of the menus enormously. It has been an exciting journey.
If there is anyone in the world you could cook for, who would it be?
Marco Pierre White – I admire his old-school approach and straight-talking manner.
If you could dine at any restaurant, anywhere in the world, where would it be?
London’s legendary La Gavroche, the first restaurant in the UK to receive three Michelin stars.
What do you do to relax?
Away from the kitchen, I enjoy football and running. Later this year, I am taking part in the Great North Run in aid of Cancer Research. But spending quality time with my family is how I really relax.
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